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Clunk from front suspension. Any ideas?

50K views 87 replies 37 participants last post by  Evilsmith 
#1 ·
Ok. So far I've replaced front control arms and bushings, sway bar end links, bilstein struts and shock/strut mounts. I've had this strange clunk sound when I hit bumps at slow speeds. Anyone have this issue before and find what causes this clunk noise? So far the noise hasn't gone away. I don't know what else there is to replace. Thanks in advance.
 
#6 ·
Local goodyear shop did the control arms/bushings. I thought they would have stopped the noise but didn't help. Then I thought it was the sway bar end links but those didn't quiet it down. Next was the struts. Could the tie rod links cause this? Steering wheel feels smooth as could be.
 
#7 ·
I have the same problem with my 2000 328i and it is kind of annoying. I was getting ready to replace some of the parts you replaced when I realized they were still in good condition. Needless to say I wasted money shipping everything back.

After reading several postings, I am thinking that we may have bad engine and/or struts/shocks mounts. It could also be any of the other struts/shocks components, or even the struts/shocks themselves. I don't think they are meant to last forever, so they have to be replaced over time.

I already looked under my car a few times but could not find anything loose. Before I find myself ordering more parts, I want to remove the front bumper to see if there is any problem in there. I am also looking for any metal parts close enough to hit each other when driving at slow speed over road bumps.
 
#9 ·
Well I've replaced just about everything possible in the front end. I doubt engine mounts would cause this clunky sound. I only get it in the front end at low speeds. It just sounds like the car is cheap. The rear sounds fine. I've replaced the shocks/struts and even the bearing strut mounts but the sound is still there. It is actually a little louder on the passenger side.

Anyone replace tie rods to remedy this sound??

As for the rear sound when turning or body flexing. I replaced the rear sway bar end links and got rid of the loud pop/thump sound.
 
#10 ·
Yes, the tie rods could produce a sound like that. I was in a similar situation--replaced my control arms/bushings and the noise was still there though quieter. Replaced my tie rods and then there was absolutely no noise--felt like new again also. Good luck,

--D
 
#12 ·
Phsinvent, I had a similar experience about 18 months ago with virtually identical symptoms ***8211; long story short, it was my front brake calipers/pads. While inside the car it sounded like a clunk, but while outside it sounded more like a snap and very metallic. I could actually feel the clunk in the brake pedal and steering wheel, but only at very slow speed while turning into my driveway, or going over a bump, for example.

Desperate for a solution, I removed my brake calipers and cleaned and lightly lubed the slides/pins with caliper grease. At the same time I replaced my brake pads. I did so because my front pads seemed to be a poor fit inside the calipers. I purchased my car used so I had no idea if the pads were aftermarket or OEM. However, aftermarket Axxis pads fit much better than the ones that were installed at the time.

Since I replaced the pads and cleaned/lubed the pins concurrently I can***8217;t say for certain which cleared the problem ***8211; perhaps both, but most likely the pins. The pins/slides dry-up and prevent the caliper from floating. This results in only one pad making good contact while the caliper freezes. When it unfreezes you hear/feel the clunk. Easy and cheap to eliminate ***8211; 2 bucks worth of caliper grease and a Saturday morning. Good luck.
 
#78 ·
Phsinvent, I had a similar experience about 18 months ago with virtually identical symptoms - long story short, it was my front brake calipers/pads. While inside the car it sounded like a clunk, but while outside it sounded more like a snap and very metallic. I could actually feel the clunk in the brake pedal and steering wheel, but only at very slow speed while turning into my driveway, or going over a bump, for example.

Desperate for a solution, I removed my brake calipers and cleaned and lightly lubed the slides/pins with caliper grease. At the same time I replaced my brake pads. I did so because my front pads seemed to be a poor fit inside the calipers. I purchased my car used so I had no idea if the pads were aftermarket or OEM. However, aftermarket Axxis pads fit much better than the ones that were installed at the time.

Since I replaced the pads and cleaned/lubed the pins concurrently I can't say for certain which cleared the problem - perhaps both, but most likely the pins. The pins/slides dry-up and prevent the caliper from floating. This results in only one pad making good contact while the caliper freezes. When it unfreezes you hear/feel the clunk. Easy and cheap to eliminate - 2 bucks worth of caliper grease and a Saturday morning. Good luck.
This is exactly what I'm experiencing. Thanks for the info.
 
#14 ·
Well the tie rods didn't solve the sound. Now I notice I only hear the sound when the temperature outside is below 65 degrees. When it is warmer out, I don't hear it. Mainly coming from the front right. I'll have to take a look at the brake pads now.

So far i've replaced. Control arms, control arm bushings, sway bar end links, tie rods, struts, strut mounts. Still no remedy.
 
#15 ·
Here is my story:

I have the exact same problem/sound.

I have changed: New full KW suspension, New control arms with powerflex bushings, new tie rods, new rebuilt calipers, new swaybar end links as the KW suspension comes with it.

What I have coming and will install in the next months: New UUC swaybars and new steering coupling.

After replacing all that if the clunking sound is still there when I go over bumps at low speed I will get all new pads and rotors and if that doesnt solve it, I will drive off a cliff.

My clunk sound is louder if my passenger side front wheel govers over a bump and my driver side does not or visa versa.
 
#16 ·
Well I have to say i'm becoming very fed up. I thought these cars were built to last. I have never had to maintain a vehicle as much as this. I've thought of driving mine off a cliff as well or selling it but why give it to someone with almost all new parts. I don't even want to get into all the other parts I've replaced outside of the front suspension.

Well I have a new sound to report outside of the low speed clunk. I have the wooden boat creak sound. I get this creak sound when the car is running and I turn the wheel. It is not the power steering pump but something creaking down below. I'm so sick of this.
 
#17 ·
[QUOTE

My clunk sound is louder if my passenger side front wheel govers over a bump and my driver side does not or visa versa.[/QUOTE]


Same thing here. Maybe I won't bother with the brakes. I did notice there are orange bushings that hold the sway bar in place. Are those known for going bad?? Hmmm.
 
#18 ·
[QUOTE

My clunk sound is louder if my passenger side front wheel govers over a bump and my driver side does not or visa versa.

Same thing here. Maybe I won't bother with the brakes. I did notice there are orange bushings that hold the sway bar in place. Are those known for going bad?? Hmmm.[/QUOTE]


Ya, so me and you are in the same boat. I think it could be either the steering coupling or the swaybar...I will let you know if it fixes the problem when I replace them in a few weeks.

Your creaking is probably because of the bad steering coupling as I have the same thing.
 
#20 ·
I have the same noise, sounds like a low clunk when I hit bumps or go over uneven road at low speeds. Just put on the UUC suspension set along with sways in the front and rear. No change. Im thinking either end links in the front or tie rods. Im going to do my tie rods next.

The alignment shop is considering making a plaque for me.
 
#21 ·
OK I FIXED MY PROBLEM.....before installing my UUC swaybars, while I had the car up, I went around hitting all parts with a hammer....when I hit the OEM swaybar on the driver side, it make a clunk noise....it ended up being that the aftermarket front swaybar end links that come with the KW V1 were not tight enough on the driver side.

Now I go the UUC swaybars and steering coupling installed and no sound, just amazing solid tight silent handling!

Also found that my driver side balljoint is gone....so new control arms are being ordered.
 
#22 ·
I got the same rear end (passenger) clunky noise, when going over small bumps (speed bumps) or potholes. I've changed everything too, except for brake pads and rotors. I figured if I change them, there is a good chance of that being the culprit. Something about the fitment of the pads must be wrong. The only reason I haven't changed them yet is because they are no where near worn so I figure I might as well wait. Unless anyone else can find a solution, I will just wait till it's time to change them and see if that does it. Hope no damage is being done under there for the time being. I did find out that for the metallic scrapping noise back there, it may be the rotor shield (don't know the correct term), rubbing on the rotor when bumps are hit. It was for me, so I bent it out a bit (away from rotor) and it seemed to help with that noise.
Sorry for the long post.
 
#23 ·
I had that clunk. Occurred when I would go over high lips to driveways or speedbumps. When driving on the highway and making gradual turns in the road, if I hit a bump the steering wheel would start to shake as well. Ended up needing 2 front control arms, but you said you replaced them, so I'm not really sure. I would have another shop look at the control arms to ensure they were changed/installed properly (or at all :eek: )
 
#24 ·
Yeah I remembered the control arms were the first I replaced. I got in my car after the job was done and the damn clunk sound was still there. I think the only thing I remember from the control arms is the steering wheel would shake at certain speeds.

I just did the tie rod end links lately and that didn't help the problem. So I have done, control arms, control arm bushings, sway bar end links, tie rod end links, bilstein struts, strut mounts. I'm just so sick of dumping money into this pit. Am I missing something? I noticed there are also some type of bushings the hold the sway bar. This noise only happens in the front and at low speeds. And it does it much more when the outside temp is below 60 degrees.
 
#26 ·
I have the rear noise. drving slowly over small bumps and such gives a clunk noise. I thought it was the RSM's but those have been replaced and I've checked them for being tight atleast 3 times. Also I unbolted the rear sway bar carriers/bushings and reattached them with the car under load, the noise is still there. I've had my SubFrame fixed with a new stronger floor board, replaced my rear sway bar endlinks, and also replaced the rear shocks with Koni Adjustables, the noise is still there. It's really annoying, to the point that I'm thinking of selling this car, because it bothers me that much. I've owned 5 other automobiles, two ford trucks, one ford car, one honda and one acura and I've never experienced anything like this. It is maddening to be driving through a parking lot and hear this noise that sounds like the car is falling apart.

One other note I've replace the rear brake pads previously, thinking that might be it, but I don't understand how they could be making that much noise...
 
#30 ·
tell you what, if you have $100 to spare, then take your car back to the stealership and ask them to re-program the transmission controller. That is how much it costs you to re-program it. At low RPM (speed), a great amount of torque is transferring to the drive shaft and this indirectly connecting to the chassis. If the transmission shifts a little too soon or too late, this will make a clunk sound which people may think it is suspension related. When the car is new, the sound is undetectable because all the chassis mounts, bushings, etc... are tight. But as the car aged, the sound is magnified and become a clunk sound. You can replaced every suspension parts, but the clunk sound still there. BMW knows about this, but they would not want to do a recall because of the cost. They released a new software to fix this problem....but did not inform their costomers unless the comtomers complaint.
 
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