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DIY - 2001 BMW 325Ci (E46) – Valve Cover Gasket Install

102K views 74 replies 55 participants last post by  BMWer14 
#1 ·
My DIY has been sent to the site admin, so here is a preview. If you want a word doc copy with pics let me know. Or if there is some way to attach a 3mb word doc somebody tell me.

Required Tools:
Flat head screwdriver
Socket wrench
8mm socket
10mm socket
T30 Torx bit and driver
Spark plug socket

Suggested Tools:
Torque Wrench capable of 7.5ft.lbs
3/8inch and 1/4inch socket sets with extensions
Plastic gloves
Protective towel to lean against car
High-temp gasket sealant
Anti-seize compound for spark plug install
Flashlight and new batteries
Multiple containers to store small parts
Digital camera to take pictures before you take it apart (reassembly help)
Phillips head screwdriver
Floor-jack

(The Philips and floor-jack are for when you (and you will) drop a socket or screwdriver in the engine bay. The plastic panels under the car can be easily removed. Mine automagically appeared in the one-screw panel – this will make sense when you jack it up.)

Parts used:
One – 11 12 9 070 990 Valve Cover Gasket Set
Fifteen – 11 12 1 726 537 Valve Cover Bolt Rubber Seals
Six – 12 13 9 067 831 Spark Plug Rubber Connector Boots
Six – NGK-6418 IRIDIUM Plugs
Gasket sealant
Anti-seize compound

Time taken:
About 3.5 hours – I was deliberately very slow and careful. I could do it again in about 2 hours.

This is an easy install, just go slow and be careful.

DISCLAIMER: I am not a mechanic, so there are no implied or expressed warranties, or implied or expressed validity to these instructions. I suggest you consult a BMW dealer for questions on this installation. I do not recommend that these instructions be followed. Proceed at your own risk. Nothing in these instructions should be considered valid. This should only be considered a journal of what I did to my own car.

Good luck.


1. The entire cabin filter assembly should be removed for easy access to the engine. This is very easy, and only takes about 15 minutes.

2. The cabin filter lid is held by three strange fasteners. Just gently twist them counter-clockwise about a quarter turn, and they have a spring that will pop them up.

3. The filter lid fits between some of the rubber seal, so gently pull out on the entire filter lid, and it should slide out.

4. Take note of how the filter fits in the assembly, and then remove the filter.

5. The wires running in front of the cabin filter assembly are covered by a flat lid. Each side of the lid has simple snap connectors. Just gently lift the tabs while working the lid off. Once the top side connectors are undone, just gently roll the lid off the channel holding the wires.

6. Remove the four TORX bolts using a T30 bit. The screws are about an inch long, so keep twisting until they are all the way out. Lifting on the front of the filter tray, gently work it out of its spot. This part is done.

7. Using a flat head screwdriver, gently pry off the engine cover bolt caps. Using a 10mm socket, remove the bolts and nuts. The right side engine cover should be pulled to the left as it is removed (remember to reverse this procedure when putting everything back together). The engine is now exposed.

8. Tim P.’s spark plug replacement instructions do a good example of showing how to undo the clip holding the coil wire in place. I did not need to use a screwdriver, but you might. The metal clip just slides up, and you can easily pull the coil plug out from the side. Just be very gentle (a common theme).
http://www.e46fanatics.com/howto/picturepage.php?imagename=04.jpg&directory=44

9. Take note of the ground strap on the 1st and 6th plug coils. You need to be sure to reassemble everything exactly as it is removed.

10. The 8mm nut holding both of the ground straps to the valve cover is fastened to one of the valve cover bolts. The 8mm nut should be removed to expose the 10mm valve cover one.

11. Remove the middle wire with also; it too has an 8mm nut. Once it is off, you will notice that there are four 10mm bolts now exposed on the valve cover top. One was covered by this wire, two were covered by the ground straps. All four of these will need to be removed, they look like nuts, but they are really 10mm bolts.

12. Using a 10mm socket, remove the two bolts holding the plug coils in place. Once the bolts are removed, just pull up on the coil to remove it. I don’t think it is necessary to keep track of which one was which, but I did so I could put everything back the way I found it. Upon reassembly, this is good time to replace the spark plugs and plug boots. I torqued the plugs to 18-ft.lbs

13. For lack of a better description, the vent tube needs to be unfastened. It is very stiff, brittle, thin plastic, so be very gentle. Squeeze the plastic clip on the top and bottom while pulling back on the tube. Don’t pull hard, because it only gives about one inch. The tube will break if you pull it hard. I had to wiggle mine for a few minutes to get it loose. This was about the worst part of the entire install.

14. All of the coil wires are tucked into a nice tidy plastic channel. The entire channel (top and bottom) come off as one piece. Do not remove the cover. Just gently pull it free by pulling up on the entire assembly. There are a few clips holding it down, so you might need to use a flat head screwdriver to negotiate the thing out. When reinstalling the assembly, just make sure it is lined up and press it down. It will click back in place. This was pretty slick, BMW did this right.

15. Once the coil wires are moved, you can pull up gently on the wires underneath. These are just held by some simple U-clips. Only the silver metal one is tricky, just lift the tab and pull the wires out from the side (this is right above one of the oxygen sensors, so don’t bust the wire off the top of the sensor). As a note, I did not disconnect any wires, I just moved them out of the way. These wires I twist-tied to the heavy battery cable running above the engine.

16. Now you can finally start removing the valve cover hold down bolts. All of them are 10mm. Every bolt has a metal washer, then a rubber gasket. Replace the gaskets on your install, mine looked pretty used. Once all the bolts are removed, pull the valve cover up to remove it. I had to gently pry mine in a few places.

17. If you are not lucky enough to pull the entire gasket like me, be sure you get it all. Some people report theirs as very brittle. Mine was just stiff. Not at all like the soft rubber replacement.

18. I took this time to spray the entire cover with some Simple Green grease remover and then spray it with the hose. By the time I was ready to reinstall, the sun had dried it for me.

19. Now you will notice the spark plug gaskets. Mine were stuck pretty good. You don’t need to remove the bolts that appear to be holding them down, but I did.

20. Once all your gaskets are off, clean the entire gasket area. Gasket sealant is not supposed to be required, but everyone says to use it on the half-moon areas (this will make sense once you get it apart). I used a high-temp sealant.

21. To get the gaskets back on, I just placed them in the cover (there is grove that holds them in place) and set the cover back on the engine. Seems simple enough, but it took me some time – I was super careful that everything went back in place correctly.

22. Now put it all back together. I torqued all the valve cover bolts down to about 10-ft.lbs, I think BMW says 7.5-ft.lbs (that wasn’t an option on my torque wrench, plus less seemed to lose).
 
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#5 ·
Why did you replace the coil to plug connectors? Typically you replace plug wires because they are carbon wires to reduce noise and therefore do wear. These are just straight wires, so they shouldn't wear. Noise isn't a problem in the plug bore.

Does someone call for them to be replaced? If I am wrong let me know and I'll replace them as I finish replacing my HG.

Thanks
Geoff
 
#7 ·
I reviewed many write-ups similar to the one posted by NoVaDreier. They are not that expensive, so I figured after 6 years they could probably stand to be replaced. Entrie coil packages are available, but $$$. There is some new coil technology on the market prob worth the price, but not worth it for my 325 - maybe if I had an M3.

Good luck with your DIY.
 
#8 ·
ummm....this may be a stupid question, but...I replaced the valve cover gasket and the spark plugs. in the process of putting everything back together I dropped one of the bolts that secures the ignition coil things (the black square shaped objects that connect to the spark plugs). I couldnt find it and I have no other way of getting to the store to get a replacement. Is it safe to put everything back together and drive to the dealership to get the bolt?? I'm only missing one, so the other bolt in the ignition is holding it down.
 
#11 ·
The dealer told me $250 for the valve cover gasket. So, I went and bought new spark plugs ($108) and the valve cover gasket ($38) and probably saved myself around 400-500 dollars.
 
#12 ·
Oh, one thing to be careful with is pulling the valve cover off. I pryed up with the flathead until I could get my hand under there to pull it up some more, I pulled up on the cover with some force and sliced my fu***** hand in half. The gasket was very hard and brittle. It had turned from rubber into plastic.
 
#21 ·
Great DIY, nicely explained. I've got a burning smell and smoke coming from the engine bay and I'm suspecting its cause of my gasket. Going to do this DIY & see if it resolves the issue. I have over 131 thousand miles on my 2001 330ci... probably should change the plugs too.
 
#23 ·
I've been holding off on replacing the valve cover gasket. Now that I have synthetic oil all over the bottom of my 330i's front end and the stink of it burning on the exhaust in the cabin, my laziness is over. Thanks for the step by step write up!! Definitely will make it easier for my lazy butt!!
 
#26 ·
WOW, Great Job! You wouldn't have a DIY like that for the Oil separator would you? Found a few other DIY, but this was really easy to read/view pic...at the same time. I plan to do mine soon. Called for a quote, $1,000 for valve cover gasket and oil separator at the stealers...trying to convince myself to do it myself lol.

Thanks!
 
#30 ·
"13. For lack of a better description, the vent tube needs to be unfastened. It is very stiff, brittle, thin plastic, so be very gentle. Squeeze the plastic clip on the top and bottom while pulling back on the tube. Don’t pull hard, because it only gives about one inch. The tube will break if you pull it hard. I had to wiggle mine for a few minutes to get it loose. This was about the worst part of the entire install."


Well to make a long story short, I pulled too hard and broke this by the neck and I need help to figure out how to replace/remedy this. What do you call this part. I can probably overnight delivery the part I just need a DIY fast!!! Thanks
 
#31 ·
I just did the valve cover gasket kit replacement. Did not take very long but I took my time. Make sure you dont break the vent hose as I broke it but i had extra rubber tubeing laing around. Also dont over tighten the valve cover bolts because they will break very easy. Use a torq rench and set it for 6 to 7 lbs. I set it for 10 lbs and broke a stud. It comes out easy with a 10mm socket but you have to get another one along with a new nut. overall very easy. In my kit was the spark plug gaskets which were very brittle and the valve cover ruber washers which were also very hard due to the heat from the engine. Thanks to this write I was able to do this job very easy. Saved myself alot of bucks.
 
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